The kingdom of color
Polcenigo, Green Treasure. In reality, what strikes about this village and its hamlets is the extraordinary richness of color shades. While the green of the hills and nearby mountains dominates, competing for the tourist's eye are the blue of the stream waters and the deep and magical blue of the Gorgazzo spring, the red of the tiles, the ochre and other pastel colors of many houses in the historic center, up to the white of the marbles that adorn the facades of the noble palaces.
A bit of history
After the Roman era, evidenced by various artifacts, a turning point in the early centuries of the Middle Ages was the arrival of Christianity, with the founding of the small church of San Floriano, on the hill of the same name in San Giovanni, equipped with a baptismal font and the matrix of all other churches in the area. In the central part of the Middle Ages, to control important communication and trade routes between east and west and between north and south, a fortification arose on a hill dominating the village, given to a family of lords who over time would assume the comital title, becoming the counts of Polcenigo. They had full jurisdiction over the territory both during the Patriarchate of Aquileia and, from the fifteenth century, under Venetian rule, until the fall of the Serenissima. The counts promoted economic and agricultural activities, building mills (two are still preserved), fulling mills, hydraulic sawmills, and oil mills, and introducing the cultivation of mulberry trees for feeding silkworms, which made the area famous for the quality of its silks, processed locally by various spinning mills. In the eighteenth century, they rebuilt the castle, which was in poor condition, and took the opportunity to transform it into a large Venetian-style palace (and the architect Matteo Lucchesi, who seems to have been Venetian, was the designer), with a majestic staircase of 365 steps down to the village below, which has since disappeared. Unfortunately, due to various vicissitudes, the castle is today reduced, like the nearby small church of San Pietro, to ruins of undeniable charm.
Alongside the ruling families, other noble families also settled in the village, such as the Sbrojavacca, the Locatelli, the Lioni, the Mainardi, and the Fullini, a bourgeois family that in the seventeenth century purchased at auction the noble title of counts of Zucco, Cuccagna, and Partistagno and erected in the main square a massive palace, adorned with marvelous stuccoes and curious masks, where in 1809 Eugenio di Beauharnais, stepson of Napoleon, was hosted on the eve of the Battle of Camolli. The municipal capital, where noble families and the wealthiest bourgeoisie (notaries, merchants, professionals) concentrated between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries, features various palaces of historical and architectural value, such as the Palazzo della Contessa, with a gigantic centuries-old magnolia and an annexed former silk spinning mill; Palazzo Pezzutti, with an elegant trifora; Palazzo Zaro, formerly of the Manin, with another beautiful trifora and park; Palazzo Scolari-Salice, formerly of the Mainardi, with a splendid Italian garden created in the mid-nineteenth century by the new owner, engineer Pietro Quaglia. The hamlets, however, remained inhabited by peasants and small artisans, who suffered over the centuries from wars, incursions (such as the Turkish one in 1499), devastating epidemics, and recurring famines.
There is no shortage of churches, rich in works of art – frescoes, paintings, sculptures, altars, religious vestments – ranging from the Middle Ages to the nineteenth century: San Giacomo, of medieval origin but rebuilt in the eighteenth century, to which is attached a former Franciscan convent, now a rectory; San Rocco, with its characteristic bell tower, once perhaps a watchtower of the village; Madonna della Salute, with a fourteenth-century layout, once dedicated to All Saints; the already mentioned little church of San Floriano, with very fine medieval frescoes; the parish church of San Giovanni di Polcenigo, dedicated to the Baptist; the churches of San Lorenzo and San Michele in Coltura; the little church of S. Antonio abate in Mezzomonte, a picturesque village at 477 meters of altitude on the mountain slope.
The various villages are then dotted with shrines, aedicules, and devotional frescoes, well integrated into an urban fabric that also boasts, especially in Coltura, Gorgazzo, and San Giovanni, several examples of well-preserved rustic and popular architecture from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
The church of San Giacomo houses an organ, built in the early eighteenth century by the Venetian organ builder Giacinto Pescetti, which possesses notable and peculiar instrumental characteristics, and is therefore used for concerts and for recording music, especially from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.